I’ve been spending a lot of time recently in Germany. I started with several days in Munich, and then a week in Germany, which is starting to draw to a close. This isn’t my first time overseas before, nor my second, and the mere fact of being out of the US no longer holds luster in and of itself. Germany, however, has been a wonderful country to visit, and has very rapidly gotten a city up on my short list of places I’d love to live in.
Munich has really earned it’s English-speaking expat name of “Toytown”. It’s clean, peaceful, and everyone just seems happy being there. Not doped-up, either, but just it’s a genuinely nice place to live and it’s reflected in the apparent mood of those living there. The city doesn’t feel like a big city, it feels like a larger version of most of the medium-sized cities you’ll find all over the United States, but with less suck. The middle of the city is a large market in the city square, where one can get fresh Weißwurst and Weißbier together for roughly €4, and then pick up fresh organic produce and meat for that evening’s supper on the way home. The science museum there is amazing, very much as good or better than the Museum of Science and Industry in Chicago, and the whole city is very walkable. The city just doesn’t feel its size, and I like that. I’ve found I’ve been gravitating more towards more medium-sized cities, such as Seattle and Kansas City, but Munich is definitely a big city that just manages to keep the same feel that Seattle and KC do. I like that.
Berlin, however, definitely has the character of a big city. If you love New York City, London, or Paris, you’ll love Berlin. Tall buildings, busy people everywhere, and a dirty, rough character around the edges with a shining jewel core pretty much defines this place. It has a nice, “get shit done” character I like- like Chicago, the city is known for its working-class cuisine (specifically, currywurst), and an (in)famous compass-direction split of the inhabitance’s fortunes; Chicago has north/south, Berlin has east/west. It’s hard to tell where the Wall stood, but in many places in the city there’s a double-row of bricks where the line between cities stood.
The Berliners have done a mostly wonderful job of respecting the overwhelming amount of living history their city is made of; everything is tasteful, and things that need to be solemn are solemn, and things that can be taken with some levity are. However, Checkpoint Charlie has been essentially turned into a Disney attraction. Uncomfortable Eastern European actors in badly-fitted, badly-designed mock American uniforms stand in front of a recreation of one of the older sheds used there, with people selling cheap rubbish line the streets, with everything for blocks around identifying itself as the “Checkpoint Charlie Hotel” or the “Checkpoint Charlie McDonald’s” or the “Checkpoint Mini Showroom” (Ok, so Mini might have been a little clever with that…) It’s just cheap and tacky, and making unnecessary light of the tragedy for a quick euro.
That’s enough for now, and now I must sleep. G’night, internets!